Alessandro Michele marks Gucci’s a hundredth anniversary by bringing logomania to a startling new stage.
When Alessandro Michele introduced he’d be trailing away from the standard vogue calendar to indicate Gucci in bi-annual seasonless collections, he was doing what few had already performed. Little did we all know, the Italian vogue maestro was winding up for extra together with his Gucci Aria assortment.
The gathering launched this morning as a movie contains the outcomes of what Michele calls a “hacking lab” — the goal being one other luxurious power within the steady of Kering manufacturers: Balenciaga. The time period “hacking” makes it clear this was not a collaboration, the place each events present consent. This was a daring incursion into the world presided over by one other designer: Demna Gvasalia.
Named Aria — which is outlined as a solo efficiency in an opera — the gathering was extra of a dance with mushy and laborious in excellent concord. Or maybe Michele was suggesting that he would create an aria, by mixing two entities into one. Fits are marked with the names of each manufacturers within the slanted fashion of Balenciaga. There’s an unmissable Gucci motif takeover of the Balenciaga Hourglass sling bag. Iced, cuban hyperlink necklaces have charms that spell out each vogue homes’ names (observe the sneaky changing of the “g” in Balenciaga with Gucci’s notorious double Gs). And there’s a brand new tackle the Gucci brand belt with a single G in a font just like Balenciaga’s “B” buckle.
Regardless of the saturation of labelling, Michele has captured at this time’s obsession with logomania in a method no different artist has, and maybe kickstarted a complete new enterprise technique: excessive vogue fusions. And as collector’s gadgets, the Aria items may skyrocket in worth if this seems to be a one-time factor.
The setting for the film, by Michele and Floria Sigismondi (who grew up in Hamilton, ON) is the Savoy Club, a reference to the London hotel where founder Guccio Gucci worked and where the fancy luggage of the guests left a deep impression. Models walked a long hallway lined with strobe and stage lights to the beat of a hip-hop setlist sprinkled with Gucci references. Horsey motifs included harness-like corsets overtop tailored dresses and blouses. A studded crop top with Balenciaga-approved shoulders was paired with riding boots and a helmet. Michele’s taste for glitter came in a gathered-waist dress, reminiscent of flowing water, accessorized with a yellow stone-encrusted heart (the organ, not the Valentine symbol).
The film closes with Vitalic and David Shaw’s Waiting for the Stars playing while models caress each other in a fairytale landscape. This fashion-filled forest is a tucked away secret — a breath of fresh air. Just what the Aria collection and show panned out to be. And as lush greens and majestic white horses, bunnies and birds frolic to the lyrics “What the future holds, waiting for the stars to align,” the past, present and future all tie together. Gucci is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, and while its history can’t be contained in a single performance, this milestone moment marks the centenary in an innovative way. It also stresses that nothing can last without change.